While traveling around several archipelagos in Atlantic Ocean , one of the most distinctive features is the vineyards out of volcanic ash in some islands. It’s an overwhelming presence of how humans endure to overcome natural obstacles. So far, I have only visited these places in the spring, but imagining the hardworking during harvest seasons: one literally has to bend over to pick grapes!
Question: Describe the vineyards growing out of volcanic ashes in Pico Island in Azores, and Lanzarote in Canary Islands.
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The vineyards in Pico Island, Azores, and Lanzarote, Canary Islands, are quite unique due to their growth in volcanic ash soil.
In Pico Island, part of the Azores archipelago in Portugal, the vineyards are a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The vines here are planted in black volcanic soil, surrounded by small, rectangular plots protected by stone walls. These walls shield the vines from the Atlantic winds and create a microclimate. The basaltic rock retains heat, helping to ripen the grapes. The wines produced are primarily white, with the Verdelho grape being notable.
Lanzarote, one of the Canary Islands of Spain, also has a distinct approach to viticulture. The vineyards here are in a landscape covered with black volcanic ash, known as “picón.” Growers dig holes or small craters in the ash to reach the soil beneath, where the vines are planted. The ash retains moisture, crucial in this arid environment, and the vines are often sheltered by low, semi-circular walls. The predominant grape variety is Malvasía, which produces aromatic, well-balanced white wines.
In both locations, the harsh, unique conditions and the inventive cultivation techniques contribute to the distinct flavours and characteristics of the wines produced.
Question: How long has the practice of growing vines in volcanic ash in Pico and Lanzarote been around?
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The practice of growing vines in volcanic ash in both Pico Island, Azores, and Lanzarote, Canary Islands, has a long history:
- Pico Island, Azores: Viticulture in Pico Island dates back to the 15th century, shortly after the island was discovered and settled by the Portuguese around 1460. The unique method of growing vines in the cracks of black basalt rocks, protected by stone walls, was developed to adapt to the challenging environment and has been used for centuries.
- Lanzarote, Canary Islands: The tradition of viticulture in Lanzarote goes back to at least the 18th century, following the volcanic eruptions that occurred between 1730 and 1736. The eruptions covered much of the island’s arable land with volcanic ash, and the local farmers ingeniously adapted by developing the method of planting vines in holes dug into the ash (hoyos) to reach the soil beneath.
In both locations, the cultivation of vines in volcanic soils is deeply rooted in the regions’ history and cultural heritage. These traditional practices have been maintained and refined over the centuries, contributing significantly to the unique character of the wines from Pico and Lanzarote.
Question: Does it take much longer for grapes to mature?
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The maturation time of grapes in vineyards grown on volcanic soils, like those in Pico Island, Azores, and Lanzarote, Canary Islands, doesn’t necessarily take much longer than in other regions. However, several factors influence grape maturation, and volcanic soils can impact these.
- Climate: The climate plays a crucial role in grape ripening. In Pico Island and Lanzarote, the climates are influenced by their oceanic locations, which can lead to specific growing conditions. Pico has a cooler, more humid climate, while Lanzarote is warmer and drier. These conditions affect the rate of grape ripening.
- Soil Type: Volcanic soils, like those in Pico and Lanzarote, are often rich in minerals and have good drainage, which can be beneficial for grapevines. However, the specific composition of the soil can influence vine vigor and grape maturation.
- Viticulture Practices: The unique cultivation methods in these regions, such as the currais in Pico and the hoyos in Lanzarote, also impact how grapes mature. These practices can modify the microclimate around the vines, potentially influencing the ripening process.
While the volcanic soil itself doesn’t inherently slow down grape maturation, the overall growing conditions, which include the soil type, climate, and viticulture practices, collectively determine the ripening pace. In some cases, these conditions can lead to a longer growing season, allowing for a more gradual maturation of the grapes, which can contribute to the development of complex flavours and aromas in the wine.
Question: Describe the distinct flavours and characteristics of the wines produced.
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The wines produced in Pico Island, Azores, and Lanzarote, Canary Islands, have distinct flavors and characteristics due to the unique volcanic terroirs.
In Pico Island, the wines are primarily white, with Verdelho being the most notable grape variety. These wines are known for their high acidity and minerality, with a crisp and refreshing taste. They often exhibit citrus and tropical fruit notes, along with a distinctive salty, sea breeze quality due to the proximity to the ocean. The volcanic soil adds a unique mineral character to the wine, making it complex and intriguing.
Lanzarote’s wines, especially those made from the Malvasía grape, are celebrated for their aromatic profile and balance. These white wines typically have a bright acidity, with flavors of tropical fruits, citrus, and floral notes. The volcanic ash soil contributes to a distinct minerality and sometimes a slight smokiness. The dry, arid climate and the unique cultivation method result in grapes with a high concentration of flavors, leading to wines that are both intense and elegant.
In both regions, the combination of volcanic soil, climate, and traditional viticulture methods produces wines that are not only unique to their respective areas but also highly regarded for their quality and distinct taste profiles.
Question: From a sommelier point of views, do the wines from Pico and Lanzarote rated highly or merely an oddity?
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From a sommelier’s perspective, the wines from Pico Island, Azores, and Lanzarote, Canary Islands, are generally regarded as more than just oddities; they are often highly valued for their unique qualities and expressions of terroir.
- Pico Island Wines: The wines from Pico, especially those made from the Verdelho grape, are appreciated for their distinct minerality, crisp acidity, and saline notes, which reflect the island’s volcanic soil and maritime climate. They are often considered high-quality wines that pair well with a variety of foods, especially seafood.
- Lanzarote Wines: The wines from Lanzarote, particularly the whites made from Malvasía grapes, are known for their aromatic intensity, balance, and minerality. The unique cultivation methods and volcanic soils give these wines a special character that is highly regarded in the wine community.
Both regions’ wines are often sought after by wine enthusiasts and sommeliers for their uniqueness and the story they tell about their origin. They are valued for their authenticity and the traditional methods used in their production. While they might not have the same widespread recognition as some of the more famous wine regions, they are certainly respected and appreciated among wine professionals and connoisseurs for their quality and distinctiveness.
Question: Is there any other place in the world with similar practices?
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Yes, there are other places in the world with vineyards in volcanic soils and unique viticulture practices similar to those found in Pico Island, Azores, and Lanzarote, Canary Islands. Some notable examples include:
- Santorini, Greece: Santorini is famous for its Assyrtiko grape, grown in volcanic soils. The vines are trained in a unique basket shape, known as “kouloura,” to protect them from the strong winds and intense sun. The volcanic soil contributes to the distinct minerality and crisp acidity of the wines.
- Mount Etna, Sicily, Italy: The vineyards on the slopes of Mount Etna are planted in rich volcanic soil. The altitude, volcanic soil, and unique microclimates contribute to the production of distinctive wines, especially those made from the Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio grape varieties.
- Soave, Veneto, Italy: In the Soave region, some vineyards are planted on volcanic soils, contributing to the minerality and complexity of Soave wines, primarily made from the Garganega grape.
- Douro Valley, Portugal: While not volcanic, the Douro Valley’s vineyards are planted on schist soil, which is rocky and poor in organic matter. The vineyard terraces in this region are a unique feature, reflecting adaptation to the steep terrain.
- Napa Valley, California, USA: Parts of Napa Valley, like Howell Mountain and Diamond Mountain, have volcanic soil, contributing to the distinct character of the wines produced there, especially Cabernet Sauvignon.
- Canary Islands, Spain: Besides Lanzarote, other islands in the Canaries, such as Tenerife and La Palma, have vineyards in volcanic soils, each with unique microclimates and grape varieties.
These regions share the common trait of having vineyards in volcanic or challenging terrains, where innovative and adapted viticulture practices are employed to cultivate vines, resulting in wines with distinctive characteristics and flavors.
