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The GR21 is a long-distance hiking trail that runs along the Côte d’Albâtre (Alabaster Coast) in Normandy, France. This scenic route covers approximately 190 kilometers (about 118 miles), offering hikers breathtaking views of the English Channel, towering chalk cliffs, and picturesque countryside.
Starting from the historic town of Le Havre, recognized for its modernist architecture, the trail meanders through a variety of landscapes, including pebbled beaches, lush green pastures, and dense woodlands. It passes through charming seaside towns and villages such as Étretat, known for its dramatic cliffs and natural arches; Fécamp, with its rich maritime history and the Palais Bénédictine; and Dieppe, a lively port town with a castle and a long pebble beach.
One of the highlights of the GR21 is the stunning natural beauty of the cliffs, which are among the tallest in Europe. The chalk cliffs, especially around Étretat, have inspired artists like Claude Monet with their unique formations, including arches and a pointed structure known as L’Aiguille (The Needle).
The trail also offers a chance to explore the rich cultural heritage of Normandy, with opportunities to visit historical sites, sample local cuisine (including seafood and the famous Normandy cider), and experience the warm hospitality of the region’s inhabitants.
Marked with the characteristic red and white stripes of Grande Randonnée trails, the GR21 is well-signposted and accessible to hikers of various skill levels, though some sections may be challenging due to steep climbs or uneven terrain. It can be hiked in sections or as a whole, with accommodation options ranging from campsites to guesthouses along the route.
Overall, the GR21 provides an immersive experience of Normandy’s natural beauty and cultural richness, making it a must-do for hiking enthusiasts and those looking to explore this unique part of France.
****In 2019, it was voted the best hiking trail by French walkers, list some of best tourist destinations along the route.
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The GR21, voted the best hiking trail by French walkers in 2019, traverses some of Normandy’s most iconic and picturesque tourist destinations along the Côte d’Albâtre. Here are some of the best tourist destinations along the route:
- Le Havre: The starting point of the GR21, Le Havre is a UNESCO World Heritage site, known for its post-World War II modernist architecture by Auguste Perret. The city offers museums, including the MuMa (Musée d’art moderne André Malraux) with its impressive collection of Impressionist paintings.
- Étretat: Famous for its dramatic chalk cliffs, including the arches of Porte d’Aval and Porte d’Amont, as well as L’Aiguille (The Needle), Étretat’s natural beauty has inspired artists like Monet. The town itself is charming, with beautiful gardens like Le Jardin d’Étretat and opportunities for water sports.
- Fécamp: This historic town is known for its maritime heritage, the Benedictine Palace (Palais Bénédictine) where the famous liqueur is made, and the Fécamp Abbey. The Cap Fagnet offers stunning views of the town and coastline.
- Yport: A small fishing village that has retained its authenticity, Yport is a quieter stop along the GR21. It’s a great place to experience the tranquil beauty of Normandy’s pebble beaches and enjoy local seafood.
- Veules-les-Roses: One of the most beautiful villages in France, Veules-les-Roses is known for its charming houses, water mills, and the Veules River, which is one of the shortest rivers in France. The village also has a lovely beach.
- Dieppe: As the trail’s endpoint, Dieppe is a vibrant town with a rich history. Key attractions include the 15th-century castle, now a museum with an extensive collection of ivory, and the town’s beach, which is popular for kite flying. Dieppe is also known for its annual kite festival.
- Varengeville-sur-Mer: Home to the stunning Marine Cemetery and the Church of Saint-Valery, which offers panoramic views of the sea. The village is also known for its gardens, including the famous Shamrock Collection, the largest collection of hydrangeas in the world.
- Saint-Valéry-en-Caux: A picturesque port town with a rich history, offering beautiful views of the English Channel, a marina, and a pebble beach. The town has several historic buildings and monuments, including the Maison Henri IV.
These destinations along the GR21 offer a mix of natural beauty, cultural heritage, and recreational activities, making the trail not only a journey through some of Normandy’s most scenic landscapes but also an exploration of its rich history and vibrant local life.
****Is the trail difficult to walk? The elevation ?
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The GR21 trail along the Côte d’Albâtre in Normandy, France, is considered to be of moderate difficulty overall, but it can vary significantly over its course. The difficulty of the trail depends on several factors, including the specific sections hiked, the weather conditions, and the individual hiker’s experience and fitness level.
Elevation and Difficulty:
- Terrain: The GR21 features a variety of terrains, including pebble beaches, cliff-top paths, forest trails, and rural footpaths. Some sections involve steep climbs and descents, particularly when the trail ascends the coastal cliffs or crosses river valleys. These parts can be challenging for those not used to hiking in hilly or uneven terrain.
- Elevation Gain: The trail includes numerous ups and downs as it follows the contours of the cliffs along the coast. The total elevation gain and loss over the entire route can be significant, but this is spread out over many kilometers, making no single section overly strenuous. Specific elevation data varies, but hikers should be prepared for regular climbs and descents, some of which can be steep but are usually short.
- Weather Conditions: The difficulty of the trail can also be affected by weather conditions. Wind, rain, and fog can make hiking more challenging, especially on exposed cliff-top paths. Good preparation and checking weather forecasts are important.
- Distance: The total length of the trail is approximately 190 kilometers (about 118 miles). Hikers can choose to do the entire trail in a single multi-day hike, requiring good endurance, or opt to hike shorter sections based on their interest and ability.
Preparation:
- Fitness Level: While the GR21 is accessible to hikers with a moderate level of fitness, preparing for the trail by doing regular walks or hikes can enhance the experience and reduce the risk of injury.
- Equipment: Proper hiking boots or shoes are essential, as is a map or GPS device. The weather can change quickly, so carrying layers and waterproof gear is advisable.
- Planning: It’s a good idea to plan which sections of the trail to hike based on your interests, fitness level, and the time available. Accommodations and services vary along the route, so planning overnight stays and meals in advance is also recommended.
In summary, while the GR21 is not considered extremely difficult, its moderate challenges offer rewarding experiences of the beautiful Normandy coastline and countryside. Preparation, proper equipment, and a reasonable level of fitness will help ensure a safe and enjoyable hike.




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To walk this trail, it would be convenient to base at Le Havre and Fecamp. While at Etretat, the garden is really worth a visit.