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Hay-on-Wye, a small market town on the Welsh-English border, is renowned for its bookshops and literary culture. It’s often called “the town of books” due to its large number of bookshops, making it a mecca for bibliophiles worldwide.
Origin and Early History
Hay-on-Wye dates back to medieval times, with its origins as a small settlement surrounding Hay Castle, built in the late 11th century by Norman lord William de Braose. The town grew around this defensive structure and became an important market town during the Middle Ages, benefiting from its strategic location near the River Wye, which was a key trade route.
Development and the Rise of Book Culture
The modern transformation of Hay-on-Wye began in 1961 when Richard Booth, a local bookseller, declared himself the “King of Hay” and Hay-on-Wye an independent kingdom as a publicity stunt. Booth’s actions gained international attention, and his efforts to transform the town into a haven for second-hand and antiquarian booksellers started the town’s association with books. Many more bookshops followed, and soon Hay-on-Wye became famous for having more bookshops per square mile than anywhere else.
Hay Festival of Literature and Arts
In 1988, the town’s reputation as a literary center was solidified with the founding of the Hay Festival of Literature & Arts. The festival now attracts thousands of visitors each year and brings in prominent writers, thinkers, and cultural figures from around the world. The festival’s success has firmly placed Hay-on-Wye on the global literary map.
Today, Hay-on-Wye remains a popular destination for book lovers and cultural tourists, blending its medieval roots with a modern identity as a hub of intellectual and literary life. The town’s development into a book capital has spurred economic growth while maintaining its charming and historic atmosphere.
Hay-on-Wye is home to around 20-30 bookshops, though the exact number can fluctuate as shops open or close. The town is famous for its second-hand and antiquarian bookshops, catering to a wide range of interests, from rare and collectible books to popular fiction, children’s books, and specialty genres like crime and history. Some of the most notable bookshops include Booth’s Bookshop, Addyman Books, and Murder and Mayhem.
Within an hour’s bus distance of Hay-on-Wye, several historical monuments and tourist attractions provide a rich cultural and natural experience. Here are some highlights:
1. Hay Castle (in Hay-on-Wye itself)
This medieval castle, dating back to the 12th century, is a key landmark in the town. It has recently been restored and offers tours, exhibitions, and events.
2. Brecon Beacons National Park (20-30 minutes)
A short distance from Hay-on-Wye, this national park offers stunning natural landscapes, including mountains, waterfalls, and hiking trails. Popular spots include Pen y Fan, the highest peak in South Wales.
3. Llanthony Priory (30 minutes)
Located in the picturesque Vale of Ewyas, the ruins of this Augustinian priory are an atmospheric site to visit. Its remote location adds to the charm of the crumbling medieval structure.
4. Talgarth Mill (15 minutes)
This fully restored 18th-century watermill is still in operation today. Visitors can tour the mill and learn about its history and how it’s used to produce flour, with a café offering baked goods made from its products.
5. Tretower Court and Castle (30 minutes)
A 12th-century castle and later fortified manor house, Tretower Court and Castle offer insight into medieval Welsh life. The site features restored rooms and interactive displays.
6. Brecon Cathedral (40 minutes)
Located in the town of Brecon, this historic cathedral dates back to the 11th century. Its serene atmosphere and beautiful stained-glass windows make it a key religious and architectural site in the region.
7. The Regimental Museum of The Royal Welsh (45 minutes)
Also located in Brecon, this museum covers the history of the Royal Welsh regiment, featuring military artifacts, exhibits, and stories of battles like Rorke’s Drift.
8. Offa’s Dyke Path (Nearby)
This long-distance walking path runs near Hay-on-Wye and follows the historic Offa’s Dyke, an earthwork built in the 8th century by King Offa. There are various shorter sections that can be explored for scenic views and historic exploration.
9. Clyro Court (10 minutes)
A historic manor house just outside Hay-on-Wye, Clyro Court is notable for its association with the diarist Rev. Francis Kilvert, whose writings offer a vivid picture of Victorian life in the area.
10. The Black Mountains (20-30 minutes)
Part of the Brecon Beacons, this range offers fantastic opportunities for walking and exploring. The area is steeped in history, with ancient churches and remote villages scattered throughout.
These attractions offer a blend of history, nature, and culture, all easily accessible from Hay-on-Wye by bus or a short drive.
Here’s a one-day itinerary for Hay-on-Wye that includes exploring the town’s highlights, browsing its famous bookshops, an easy hike in the surrounding countryside, and tasting some local food specialties:
Morning
1. Breakfast at Shepherds Ice Cream Parlour
Start your day with a light breakfast at Shepherds, which serves homemade ice cream made from sheep’s milk. They also offer coffee and baked goods, perfect for fueling your day.
2. Explore Hay Castle
After breakfast, head to Hay Castle. The newly restored 12th-century castle offers tours and exhibitions, providing a glimpse into the town’s rich history. Stroll through the castle’s grounds and enjoy views of the surrounding countryside.
3. Bookshop Browsing
Spend the late morning wandering through some of the town’s famous bookshops. Must-visit shops include:
• Booth’s Bookshop: The largest second-hand bookshop in town, with a fantastic selection of rare and out-of-print books.
• Murder and Mayhem: A quirky shop specializing in crime and horror fiction.
• Addyman Books: A three-floor labyrinth of books with plenty of hidden gems.
Enjoy the relaxing atmosphere of browsing through these literary treasures.
Lunch
4. Lunch at The Old Black Lion
For lunch, head to The Old Black Lion, a historic 17th-century inn. Sample local specialties such as Welsh lamb or cawl, a traditional Welsh stew made with lamb, leeks, and potatoes.
Afternoon
5. Easy Hike – The Wye Valley Walk
After lunch, enjoy an easy, scenic hike along the Wye Valley Walk. Starting in Hay-on-Wye, the path runs alongside the River Wye and offers beautiful views of the countryside. You can take a leisurely 1-2 hour stroll along the river, enjoying the peaceful atmosphere. The terrain is gentle, making it suitable for most fitness levels.
6. Afternoon Coffee Break at Richard Booth’s Bookshop Café
After your walk, stop by Richard Booth’s Bookshop Café for a mid-afternoon coffee break. Enjoy a locally sourced coffee or tea, paired with homemade cakes and pastries, in a cozy literary atmosphere.
Late Afternoon
7. Final Bookshop Stops or Local Art Galleries
Spend some time exploring any remaining bookshops or visit the Brook Street Pottery & Gallery, showcasing local artwork and pottery. It’s a great place to pick up a unique, handcrafted souvenir.
Dinner
8. Dinner at The Three Tuns
Finish your day with dinner at The Three Tuns, a cozy, historic pub offering a variety of local dishes. For a traditional meal, try their Welsh rarebit (a rich cheese sauce on toasted bread) or the local Herefordshire beef.
Evening
If you’re not too tired after dinner, consider a quick return to one of the quieter bookshops before they close or take an evening stroll along the river for a relaxing end to your day.
This itinerary balances time spent exploring the town’s literary culture, enjoying an easy hike in the picturesque countryside, and tasting some delicious local food.
