Self-Drive Barging in Burgundy

ChatGPT:

Self-driving barge trips in France offer a hands-on and adventurous way to explore the country’s waterways compared to crewed luxury barges. These self-driven barges, also known as penichettes or canal boats, allow travelers to captain their own vessel, navigating through the network of canals and rivers at their own pace.

These boats are equipped with living accommodations, including bedrooms, a kitchen, and a bathroom, making them a comfortable option for families or groups. No special boating license is typically required, as operators provide brief training on boat handling and navigation before the trip.

Travelers can choose their own route, stopping at various towns and villages to explore local attractions, dine at restaurants, or shop in markets. This type of holiday offers a unique blend of adventure, relaxation, and the opportunity to immerse oneself in the picturesque landscapes and rich cultural heritage of France. It’s an ideal choice for those seeking a more independent and flexible vacation experience on the water.

Question: Describe the views and interesting towns along canal Burgundy and canal Nivernais.

ChatGPT:

The Canal de Bourgogne (Burgundy Canal) and the Canal du Nivernais are two of the most picturesque and popular waterways for barging in France, each offering unique views and charming towns along their routes.

Canal de Bourgogne

The Burgundy Canal runs through the heart of the Burgundy region, famous for its exquisite wines and breathtaking landscapes. As you navigate this canal, you’ll be treated to views of rolling vineyards, historic châteaux, and pastoral countryside. The canal passes through several notable towns and attractions:

• Dijon: Known for its rich history and gastronomy, Dijon is a great starting or ending point for a canal cruise. The city’s well-preserved medieval and Renaissance buildings offer a glimpse into Burgundy’s past.
• Beaune: Famous for its annual wine auction held at the Hospices de Beaune, this town is a must-visit for wine enthusiasts. Its cobbled streets and ancient buildings provide a charming backdrop for exploration.
• Châteauneuf-en-Auxois: Perched on a hill, this medieval village offers stunning views over the surrounding countryside. The Château de Châteauneuf is a highlight, showcasing Burgundy’s architectural heritage.

Canal du Nivernais

The Canal du Nivernais connects the Loire basin with the Seine basin, meandering through the serene landscapes of the Nivernais region. It’s renowned for its natural beauty, historical sites, and quiet, unspoiled towns:

• Auxerre: This historic town, with its Gothic cathedral and timber-framed houses, is often the starting point for journeys along the Canal du Nivernais. Auxerre offers a rich cultural heritage and beautiful riverside scenery.
• Clamecy: A medieval town known for its role in the floating of timber from the Morvan forests to Paris. Clamecy’s old town, with its narrow streets and historic buildings, is delightful to explore.
• Vézelay: Although not directly on the canal, Vézelay is a short detour away and well worth the visit. The town is dominated by the Basilica of Sainte-Marie-Madeleine, a UNESCO World Heritage site and a masterpiece of Romanesque architecture.

Both canals offer a tranquil and immersive way to experience the French countryside, with ample opportunities for biking, hiking, and visiting vineyards and markets. The slow pace of barge travel allows for deep exploration of these regions, making each journey unique and memorable.

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Self-Drive barging had been one of my  dreams since having taken a hotel barge(someone else driving, serving meals, supplying day trips)in Cognac area decades ago. Imagine the romantic notions of being on a boat, floating through French countryside as free as a bird! And the ever running phrases from childhood favourite book “ The wind in the willows “ : there is nothing—absolute nothing—half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats. Simply messing,”! 

Unfortunately, none of my family shares my enthusiasm. And it’s just impossible to drive a barge alone.

Almost giving up after years’ daydreaming; out of blue, my old classmates came to rescue! Not sure whether they were out of curiosity, or simply with blind faith and courages (since except one person, no connection with any of them for more than 30 years, some even have never talked with before ), to my utter delight and surprise, there were enough people for two boats!

This is the picture of the boat and floor plan.

Right from the beginning, I made a huge strategic miscalculation .  On deciding which area to go, I thought people usually think of cultural and wine as symbols of France. Burgundy area fits the criteria to tee: great burgundy wine and new beaujolais, many well kept medieval towns and villages, beautiful countryside. Although from Canal Burgundy to Canal Nivernais, there are 68 locks to go through in one week, but how hard could it be just by pushing several buttons? Right? So, Burgundy we went!

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ChatGPT:

Navigating through locks is a key aspect of self-driving barge trips along the canals of France. Locks are mechanisms used to raise or lower boats between stretches of water of different levels on river and canal waterways.

Operating the locks can be a fun and interactive experience for travelers. When approaching a lock, you’ll typically slow down and wait for the lock gates to open. Once inside, the boat is secured with ropes, and the water level is either raised or lowered to match the next section of the canal. After the process is complete, the gates at the other end open, and you can continue your journey.

Locks vary in size and complexity, and some may be manually operated by the boaters themselves or by a lockkeeper. This process provides a hands-on experience and an opportunity to interact with locals and other travelers. It adds an element of adventure to the trip, as you actively participate in the journey and learn about the historical engineering of the canal systems.

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Very likely, most my travel companions pictured the trip as relaxing on the deck, with a drink at hand, watching the green countryside floating by. Unfortunately, most of the locks we have gone through are manual operated, charged by one lock keeper. So, some one had to go up to help, open/ shut the water gates, another one tied/ untied the ropes, one handled the wheel, one or two used a long pole to prevent the boat hitting the bank. …etc.

With  more than 10 locks every day ( no lock last day), it meant,  literally, every one jumped up and down all the time! And most of them were sedentary business people! I am sure non of them had been working so hard in their whole careers!

No license is required for driving a barge in Europe.  The boat rental company gave us an hour driving lesson, then off we went. The only problem was, except one, non of us had ever driven a boat, let alone a 50 footer.  Most assumed it was the same as driving a vehicle: you turn the wheel, then the boat responded right away. On contrary, with the resistance by water, and delayed movement of propeller, it would take several minutes for boat to respond. At the beginning, when the boat didn’t move, the pilot tended to turn more, or either turned the other way. More than often, the long barge ended up turning around and around in the middle of the canal.  It took couple days for everyone to get used to the piloting.

Several lessons learned: 

full insurance coverage, one never know what would lost( such as buoys)or damaged ( propeller)on the route.

Never moor near the down stream of any lock. Once, we tied the boats , went out for lunch. The boats were not in the same place when we came back. They got flashed away by the rushing water when the water gate being lifted.

Before completely secured the anchor or tied down the boat, never loosen the rope.

However, it wasn’t really complete all hardship with no fun. 

Since Burgundy is France major wine producing area, there was local wine for sale by almost every lock keeper, priced as low as €10-20 for half dozen. How could male classmates resist this kind of bargain? Within first few days, the wine started to pile up, resembling a well- stocked wine shop.

Several bikes came with the boat rental, so day and night, classmates took turn to riding bike along the canal paths. No compass or GPS needed, one just following the waterway up and down, exploring the beautiful countryside. It’s a kind of experience most tourists would never taste.

The speed limit of barge in Burgundy Canal is only 6 Km per hour, a little fast than walking.  One gets to view the village/ towns/ countryside in slow motion, unlike in car or train. It’s a real “ slow travel “.

In the countryside, most bakeries open very early at 6:30 or 7:00. Every morning, two female classmates would bike to nearby town/ village for fresh bread, some even still warm. Imagine breakfast on the top deck with ancient trees nearby, morning fog floating around, it was so quiet one could even hear one’s own breathing.

Since it’s self- driving, one could decide where and when to moor for anything: visiting medieval towns or ancient villages, weekly farmer markets, vineyards for wine tasting, some gardens or other historical monuments. Once, we went to a huge cave system to find a vinery in side. The spontaneous nature is part of the main attraction of barging.

One afternoon, we tied up the boats near a poppies blooming field, decided to go to a nearby restaurant for dinner. It’s about 3 km away, according to the boat handbook. After walking about halfway, some started to complain too far.  I happened to see a bar in a little village nearby, went in for taxi. The owner called for someone to take over his work, then went out to his car, simply offered to take us to the restaurant without asking for anything. It took him three times to bring us all in. After the meal, the restaurant chef took us all back to the barges. Who said French people were not friendly?

Usually we ate out as the culinary art in Burgundy being very well known. And the prices were extremely reasonable. One could get a lovely three course meal for less than €20.  Several times, after visiting local markets, we did try local ingredients to make some dinners. It was fun to cook in the well equipped kitchen, then having dinner under the starry sky, talking till late night.

One night decked by Auxerre, I wanted to show others a restaurant I liked before, but some male classmates wanted to enjoy the wine they had accumulated inside . So we split,some female friends went with me across the bridge to the restaurant; the wife’s of male classmates had to stay to prepare meal for their husbands!  In late evening, on the way back,it was very quiet in the countryside, and water carried sound very far.  One could hear their voices and laughters far away. Standing on the bridge, one of my female friends yelled down to ask them “Be quiet!” I could still remember the scene vividly.

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Mark Twain says: 

“I have found out that there ain’t no surer way to find out whether you like people or hate them than to travel with them.” 

I am so very fortunate to find several lifelong friends during the trip.